ENGINE TROUBLE SHOOTING: Let's try to trouble shoot some problems that can go wrong with your engine. OIL GAUGE READS LOW OR LIGHT FLICKERS OR COMES ON: Stop immediately and check your dip stick for the proper level. If the level is okay, change the oil and filter. Should the problem continue, have your mechanic check the pick-up screen and test the oil pressure. If the pressure is low, the oil pump and/or pick-up screen may need to be replaced. If the pump and screen are okay, your connecting rod bearings could be bad. HEAVY KNOCKING SOUND FROM ENGINE, ESPECIALLY UNDER ACCELERATION: Stop immediately and check your dip stick for the proper level. If the level is okay, your connecting rod bearings could be worn. Should the engine stop suddenly, you could have a broken connecting rod or piston. MILKY COLOR TO OIL: It may be condensation if it's very cold outside. If not, check your PCV valve. If the PCV valve is okay, you could have a worn head gasket or a cracked head or block with water leaking into the oiling system. Do a compression test and if two adjoining cylinders test low, you could have a worn head gasket. (See your mechanic) RATTLING SOUND INSIDE THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE: This can be a sign of a worn timing chain. RUMBLING SOUND FROM ENGINE, ESPECIALLY UNDER DECELERATION: This is usually an indication of worn main bearings. SPITTING OR POPPING SOUND IN ENGINE: This is usually a sign of burned valves. EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION: First check for a plugged or worn PCV valve or hose and replace if worn or plugged. If they are okay, steam clean the engine, drive around for a few days and then go back and check the appropriate connections for leaks. Replace any leaking gaskets and/or seals. Blow by, which is the extensive combustion gas that leaks into the oiling system, can be tested by taking off the oil filler cap, running the engine and watching for puffs of smoke coming out of the opening. If thick smoke is visible, your piston rings are badly worn and will require replacement. Be careful of oil splattering through the opening. If no smoke is visible but you're still getting oil on your spark plug electrodes, perform a compression test. If the cylinder deviates substantially from the others add a teaspoon of oil to that cylinder and retest. If compression then goes up, you have worn piston rings. If not, it's probably worn or burnt valves. If you find oil on an electrode but the compression is normal, you probably have a worn valve guide in that cylinder or possibly a worn intake manifold gasket. See your mechanic for further diagnostics. TICKING OR TAPPING NOISE IN ENGINE: Your problem here is usually sticky lifters. Change your oil and filter immediately and add a can of lifter lube. Then change your oil and filter again after a few hundred miles. Make sure you change the oil and filter more regularly and its a good idea to add a can of lifter lube at every change. If the noise continues, the lifters may need to be replaced. On some cars, you might just need a valve adjustment. (Refer to your mechanic for further diagnosis) HEAVY VIBRATION FEEL TO ENGINE UNDER ACCELERATION: This can be a symptom of worn or loose engine valves. DARK BLUE SMOKE FROM TAIL PIPE: This can be a sign of worn piston rings and/or valve guides. PINGING OR LIGHT KNOCKING SOUND IN ENGINE: Replace air filter if dirty, add a can of octane booster and change to a higher octane fuel. However, there is nothing you can do on some cars. If the problem worsens, get a tune-up. Should the problem persist further have a mechanic who is familiar with your model car, reset the timing, adjust the carburetor and check the EGR valve.
ENGINE CONTINUES TO RUN AFTER TURNING OFF IGNITION: First check for leaks around vacuum hoses and if there are no leaks, have your mechanic reset the ignition timing.
